The Last Boatman of Rudbøl

 
 
 
 
 

In the small border town of Rudbøl lives 90-year-old Thomas Georg Nielsen. His family has lived in the marsh area for several generations, relying on and living by the water. The lake provided food and shelter. Today, life is different, and Thomas Georg Nielsen is the last one with fishing rights in Rudbøl Lake, which is split in half by the Danish-German border.

Weathered and stooped, Thomas Georg Nielsen sits on his bench overlooking Rudbøl Lake. Behind him, the lapwings flutter and cry over the marshland. Trees are sporadically scattered, clinging to the muddy ground. Nothing much grows, just a mixture of reeds and grass. Thomas's hands rest on the cane between his legs. The wind rustles through the tall reeds, creating small ripples on Rudbøl Lake.

 
 
 

Thomas Georg Nielsens house separeted from the lake by a few meters of reeds

Thomas gazes out over the lake, where he has spent his entire life. It was in this lake that he learned to fish, to live according to nature's rules, and to embrace the old traditions of the boatmen. Today, Thomas Georg Nielsen is the last boatman left in Rudbøl Lake.

At the beginning of the last century, over a hundred fishermen sailed on Rudbøl Lake and along the Vidå River, which originates from the lake. They were called the boatmen. They lived with and off the water, earning their living by fishing and selling eels. They weaved baskets, mats, and shoes from the lake's reeds, and they sailed to transport goods and other cargo to and from Højer and Tønder. Before dikes and locks were built to drain the area, it was all flooded. Thus, the boat defined the people who lived in that area. Life was harsh. Survival depended on nature. If the wind was too strong, the boatmen couldn't use sails and had to push themselves forward with their poles.

 
 
 
 
 
 
 

Moss gradually takes over the old thatched roof of the small brick house. The old, dark wooden beams hang low inside the room, dimly lit through lace curtains. Next to the window hangs an old picture of Thomas's father in his marsh boat on Rudbøl Lake. The boat is filled to the brim with reeds, which will be used for thatching. Like his father and his father before him, Thomas has lived off nature on its terms. When he bought the house, it came with a boat, a landing place, and fishing rights. This was once the norm for all the houses around the lake. But that rule has long changed, and today, Thomas is the last one with fishing rights in Rudbøl Lake.

 
 
 
 
 
 
 

Thomas spends much of his time on the bench by the lake or in his armchair among the small porcelain figurines, old paintings, and floral-patterned furniture covers. A picture of him and his late wife stands on the dresser. The sound of the old wall clock marks each second. Time has left its mark on Thomas, who, for the first time in his life, can no longer go out on the lake. The pain in his back and right shoulder has weakened him. The little tar-painted marsh boat has been pulled out of the water and now stands in the far corner of the barn, hidden behind dusty eel traps hanging from the ceiling.

Even though Thomas can no longer go out on Rudbøl Lake, he still holds onto a part of the boatmen's traditional craft. He weaves with sedge, a type of swamp plant that can grow to two and a half meters tall. He makes baskets, mats, reed shoes, and hearts from the durable plant, which he sells to tourists at the Danish-German border, just as the boatmen did for many generations.

 
 
 
 
 

Out on the terrace, Thomas sits on the bench under the half roof, seeking shelter from the strong wind that blows freely over the endless flat marshland. The dry and hollow reeds rustle while the sun hangs low in the sky. Shortly before he goes inside to prepare dinner, he sings a few verses from an old song from the region.

 
 
 
 

"The deep silence of the night is broken
When the wild swans cry;
Who can forget the flight of birds
Over Rudbøl Lake and dyke!

The land is beautiful; no obstacle
Halts the gaze as it wanders
Over the plains and brings back
Peace and tranquility to the mind and thoughts."